A number of years ago, I organized a month-long trekking expedition to Kangchenjunga North Base Camp in Nepal. On the sixth day of our trek, two guys in army fatigues rounded up our porters. Our Sherpa guides were visibly nervous and told us we had a big problem. The guys were Maoists— armed members of an extreme communist’s organization who were demanding a ransom from us of 2500 rupees.
We ask our guides what would happen if we refused. Not a good idea, we were told as they might come back at night, slash our tents, beat up the porters – or worse. We could not risk that possibility. So, I collect 500 rupees per person. It is not a big sum of money for us, around $10, but, for a Nepali, it is a small fortune.
As I was about to hand the money over when the high Green in me revolted. I shoved the money in my pocket and told Ongda that I was going with him to talk to the Maoists. As we approached them, I asked Ongda to stay and translate for me. He and the porters looked petrified with fear, but even more confused were the Maoists.
There were two of them, about 30 years old. Both were in fatigues with small backpacks. Hard to say what was inside. One has a two-way radio, and the radio was ‘live’ as I could hear the static from it. Obviously somebody, somewhere in the jungle, was sitting with a receiver.
I greeted them politely and introduced myself. Then I wanted permission to ask some questions. Still looking confused, they agreed. First, what was the money going to be used for? The Maoist said for the support of the communist party. What was their mandate, what did they want? I received a classical communist answer— they wanted to take care of the poor people, so they would all have free education and health care. Only the Maoist with the radio spoke. The one with the stick was watching like a hawk.
Next, I asked how does it help the poor people, when they blow up a bridge? No answer. When they destroy a power station? How does it help the poor people, when they close down schools? When they blow up communication towers? Or when they cut the telephone wires? There were no answers, but only silence. I paused after each question and the silence was very noticeable.
My next question was where would they get the money for schools and medical centers. He said they would take money from the rich— again, a classical communist’s propaganda I was very familiar with. Then I asked him where they would get other money from, after they spent all the money stolen from the rich. Loooong silence.
I told them that about 40 percent of Nepal’s national income is from tourism. With all the destruction and killings, they were killing the tourist industry as well. Also, in principle, many tourists refuse to travel to a communist country. How are they going to replace that lost income? No answer. I verified with him that Nepal is receiving millions of dollars in foreign aid. He confirmed. The moment Nepal becomes a communist country, all foreign aid stops. How did they plan to replace that income? Again, silence.
I never accused him of anything and didn’t blame him for anything. Of course I didn’t raise my voice, it’s my calm and cool Green along with my Green face and logical questions.
Every time he said ‘donation’, I said ‘blackmail.’ At first, Ongda didn’t even want to translate that word, I had to persuade him. We went between these two about four times. I didn’t want to make the Maoist too mad, that would have been dangerous. He was sufficiently decimated. It was time to give him the money.
Inside my pocket I pulled out only 2000 rupees (my second Color Orange wanted a deal now). I told him that this is what we were willing to pay, I wanted a promise that they will leave us and our staff alone, and I demanded a receipt. It was my turn to be surprised as he wrote me a receipt bearing a red hammer and a sickle on it and I left.
In the meantime, my friends were just about beside themselves. One by one they wanted to go back. I spoke last telling them I refused to be bullied like this and would continue. At the end we reached a compromise. If there were no problems the next day, they would stay. If the Maoists came back, they were turning back to Kathmandu and leaving Nepal— fair enough. But the Maoists did keep their promise and we finished the whole trek together.
Liba Cunnings (used with permission – edited for space)